Hot Diggity Dog

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Wurstkuche, Downtown Los Angeles

THE CLASSICS
REGIONAL FAVORITES
FROU-FROU FRANKS
THAT’S A SPICY … HOT DOG
SAUSAGE FESTS

By Tara de Lis
For dineLA.com

They say there’s nothing more American than baseball and apple pie, but during the “dog days” of summer, nothing goes better with the former like a good, old-fashioned frank—especially a classic “Dodger Dog” at the ballpark. From these stadium staples and beyond, LA is a hot dog lover’s paradise—we’ve got iconic institutions and street-styles to regional imports and gourmet sausages.



LA’s worst kept secret, thanks to the telltale line that has lured everyone from Martha Stewart (who has a special dog named after her) to multi-generational Angeleno families, Pink’s has been a local institution since it started as a corner hot dog cart in 1939.

There are more than 21 varieties here, from an all-beef frank with jalapenos ground into the mix (formerly the “millennium dog,” now rechristened in honor of LA Mayor Antonio Villaraigosa) to the signature snappy chili original. Of their longevity, co-owner Gloria Pink says, “There aren’t many places that have been around for 70[-plus] years; we’re the ‘Hollywood hot dog,’ if you will.”

While Hollywood has Pink’s, the East LA community has been loyal to Chronis for almost as long. This simple but “famous” neighborhood stand is known for chili cheese dogs that snap, crackle and pop with flavor.

The 1940s, particularly the post-war era, jump-started several landmark eateries that have since become a way of life. In 1946, Cupid’s shot its arrow straight into the heart of the Valley and became a local mini-chain. Served fast-food-style, the thick but mild chili is slathered atop a specially made half-beef, half-pork frank.

It’s also the same year the original Tail O’ the Pup opened (in honor of another great Hollywood tradition, the wiener-shaped stand is on hiatus until a new home can be found for it).  

Over in Santa Monica, another Class of ’46 grad, the original outpost of Hot Dog on a Stick still stands, serving up corn dogs from girls and guys in corny costumes.

In the heart of Toluca Lake is a kitty corner of Americana, with state historical landmark Bob’s Big Boy on one side of the street and Papoo’s Hot Dog Show just across it (both opened in ’49). Now serving Red Hot brand, “the Show” features grilled bacon, spinach, melted Swiss topped with golden fried onion rings.

Skinny, bun-bursting Dodger Dogs emerged from the post-Brooklyn era (and were taken over by Farmer John in the ‘70s), but later expanded to meet the growing diversity of Angeleno appetites, including veggie versions, and Hebrew National’s Koshers.

Carney’s was born out of vintage railway cars and became the late-night stomping grounds of many musicians, fans and assorted other curios upon opening its first location on the Sunset Strip. All-beef chilidogs are also a signature here; for a real kick, request spicy mustard and use the signature secret recipe sauce—reportedly a blend of black pepper, toasted jalapeno peppers, garlic powder, seasoned salt and white vinegar.

Another colorful classic is Oki-Dog, legendary for its behemoth hot dog burritos, which became a cultural commodity during the punk rock era. Two sliced dogs are wrapped into a flour tortilla, along with chili and melted American cheese. Upgrades to grilled onions and yellow mustard are optional and free.

Al & Bea’s is known mostly for Mexican food, but also makes an East LA cult favorite known as the “four-finger” hot dog, which consists of two halved dogs inside a hamburger bun. A variation on this can also be found at Marty’s in West LA, where it includes a hamburger patty and is sometimes called a “50/50.”



Born out of a small eatery in Reseda, Fab’s brings together hot dog styles from all over the world. Much has been made of its bacon-wrapped LA “street dog,” but denizens of Clifton, New Jersey clamor for the traditional mustard-relished “ripper” known as the “Bald Eagle.” Owner Joe Fabrocini sources his from an undisclosed East Coast purveyor, which is specially made for deep-frying. He warns that competing restaurant’s rippers might not be as authentic: “It’s flattering that other places are offering it now, but they are using regular hot dogs.”

Also in the Valley, the Infield carries a cross-section of continent-wide specialty dogs, but the bestseller is the West Virginian. Very similar to Carolina-style, it’s distinguished by tangy coleslaw, along with chili, yellow mustard and onions.

Taste Chicago manager Jo Williams explains, “there is only one Chicago dog, and it should always be a Vienna all-beef hot dog with mustard, onion, tomato, neon relish, sport peppers, pickle spear and celery salt.” At this Burbank eatery co-owned by Chicago-born actor Joe Mantegna, it’s steamed and served on a fresh poppy seed bun.

In Long Beach, Mustard’s is another Chi-Town ode, with a squishy-bun version of the namesake Windy City wiener served with any or all of “the works.” For only $.10 cents more, the charbroiled jumbo version is recommended over the steamed regular.

Weeneez owner Julie Rico says, “I come from Detroit, where there’s a Coney Island (Michigan-speak for chili dogs) every mile.” Unlike those of her hometown, she wanted hers to be higher-end in quality, and takes particular pride in her meaty ground chuck and chuck roast chili blend, but also makes a mean street-style “Broadway dog,” with grilled onions, bell peppers, mustard, mayo and ketchup, minus the bacon.



At Café Surfas, seasonal designer dogs are created from Snake River’s Kobe-style beef. Executive Chef Brandi Quinn explains, “I wanted to create an old-fashioned hot dog, like you’d find on the street or at a country or state fair, but up the profile on it, so it’s made from Snake River Farms beef, homemade relish—[from our homemade pickles] and ketchup. Everything is a little more upscale and refined.” More like a sandwich, actually, the La Brea Bakery demi-baguette “bun” has a nice sourdough note and great crunch.

Also serving MVP beef, but inside corn dogs, are two less-than-likely suspects: 8oz Burger Bar has a softly breaded mini version, which pairs nicely with both its “purple mustard” accompaniment—and a Bayhawk Chocolate Porter; Katana features a tempura-battered take served exclusively on their summertime Red Sun BBQ menu (available Sundays through Labor Day Weekend).

Also, expanding into the hoity-toity hot dog genre, 25 Degrees, mostly known for haute hamburgers, has introduced the packed-full, spotlight-stealing Sonoran, and a more straightforward selection with relish, onion and sauerkraut that is satisfying in its simplicity.

Chef Ray Garcia's FIG Restaurant, located at Fairmont Miramar Hotel & Bungalows, is showing off its summer spirit with a poolside cart on the weekends. A menu of eight dogs—along with endless a la carte options—includes the healthy but yummy LA Dog, a turkey wiener from a specialty Beverly Hills butcher, with Fuerte avocado, alfalfa sprouts and mango pico de gallo on a spelt bun.

Nearby, the Hotel Shangri-La is serving its own specialty poolside franks, highlighted by a relatively bikini-friendly, juicy all-beef option with chopped tomatoes, onions and cilantro on Dolce Forno brioche.



The South Bay’s Bouzy gastropub, inspired by co-owner Michael Franks’ London roots also has some very modern dishes on the menu, including a “Kogi”-style, soft-textured Nathan’s hot dog with kimchi, Chinese mustard and Shishito peppers, a not-so-subtle ode to the famed Korean taco truck.

A perfect place for post-clubbing snacks in Hollywood, try Skooby’s signature dog, seven inches of snappy beef dressed with chili, aioli and onions—have them smear it up “garlic lover’s style” for extra punch.

Larry’s may be known for its namesake chili dog, but the not so peaceful sleeper hit here is the “Crouching Tiger, Hidden Dragon” special, which is made with a super spicy butterflied Louisiana hot link, then smothered in chili and cheese. It’s definitely knife-and-fork material, not to mention a water chaser!



Located in the NoHo Arts District, Viscous Dogs have put the kibosh on all other kielbasas. The sweet and spicy version, akin to something found in the old Polish neighborhoods of New York, is an intense mix of contrasting flavors, just sweet enough to relax the palate and just spicy enough to jumpstart it. Charred black in places and sectioned off for great effect, it’s a wow-factor dish.

Wurstkuche co-owner Joseph Pitruzzelli describes the philosophy behind his wildly successful Little Tokyo-adjacent mini beer hall: “Our intent was to take banal, everyday items that people have been eating for centuries and spice them up.” That he has. Though the menu includes more familiar foods as well, it has become known for the exotic, like the delightfully gamey, rich rabbit-and-rattlesnake sausage.
 
In what has become Pasadena’s Slaw Dogs signature sausage, the Thai Slaw Dog, owner Raymond Byrne was inspired by both the American South and his own Thai heritage, creating “a variation with the tang of the chili, and coolness of the slaw, and thin enough to fit in one bite.” Ingredients include chicken sausage, spicy peanut-coconut satay, cilantro-carrot slaw peanuts and Sriracha-style aioli.

Tony’s Darts Away, once a down and out dive, is now home to a variety of gourmet vegan and non-vegan sausages—quite a dramatic departure for the Burbank bar. A healthy appetite and a healthy imagination are essential for the mix-and-match menu, with concoctions ranging from natural pork Andouille with slow-griddled onions and peppers to a Full Sail Ale beer brat with vegan aioli. Yes, vegan aioli.

Bockwurst is a clean and simple sausage made with veal, pork, milk, eggs and onions. It’s a standout at the Dog House in Long Beach, along with the sweet-but-balanced honey apple. Weighing in at one-fifth of a pound, all selections are served naked and can be adorned with a veritable smorgasbord of toppings, sauces and condiments.



8oz. Burger Bar, 7661 Melrose Ave, Los Angeles, 323.852.0008, 8ozburgerbar.com
25 Degrees, 7000 Hollywood Blvd, Hollywood, 323.785.7244, 25degreesrestaurant.com
Al & Bea’s, 2025 E 1st St, Los Angeles, 323.267.8810
Bouzy, 1611 S. Catalina Ave, Redondo Beach, 310.540.1222, chezmelange.com
Café Surfas, 8777 Washington Blvd, Culver City, 310.559.4770, cafesurfas.com
Carney’s, 8351 W Sunset Blvd, West Hollywood, 323.654.8300, carneytrain.com
Chronis Famous Sandwich Shop, 5825 Whittier Blvd, Los Angeles, 323.728.7806
Cupid’s, 19348 Ventura Blvd, Tarzana, 818.345.2608
Dodger Stadium, 1000 Elysian Park Ave, Los Angeles, 323.224.1500, dodgers.mlb.com
Fab Hot Dogs, 19417 Victory Blvd, Reseda, 818.344.4336, fabhotdogs.com
FIG, 101 Wilshire Blvd, Santa Monica, 310.319.3111, figsantamonica.com
Hot Dog on a Stick, 1633 Ocean Front Walk, Santa Monica, hotdogonastick.com
Hotel Shangri-La, 1301 Ocean Ave, Santa Monica, 310.394.2791, shangrila-hotel.com
Katana, 8439 W Sunset Blvd, West Hollywood, 323.650.8585, katanarobata.com
Larry’s Chili Dog, 3122 W Burbank Blvd, Burbank, 818.842.0244
Marty’s Hamburger Stand, 10558 W Pico Blvd, West LA, 310.836.6944
Mustard's, 3387 Atlantic Ave, Long Beach, 562.427.6435
Oki Dog, 860 N Fairfax Ave, Los Angeles, 323.655.4166
Pink’s, 709 N La Brea Ave, Los Angeles, 323.931.4223, pinkshollywood.com
Papoo’s Hot Dog Show, 4300 W Riverside Dr, Toluca Lake, 818.846.1511
Skooby's, 6654 Hollywood Blvd, Hollywood, 323.468.3647, skoobys.com
The Slaw Dogs, 720 North Lake Ave, Ste 8, Pasadena, 626.808.9777, theslawdogs.com
Taste Chicago, 603 N Hollywood Way, Burbank, 818.563.2800, tastechicago.biz
The Dog House, 5374 E 2nd St, Long Beach, 562.433.4544
The Infield, 14333 Ventura Blvd, Sherman Oaks, 818.501.1850
Tony’s Darts Away, 1710 W Magnolia Blvd, Burbank, 818.253.1710, tonysda.com
Vicious Dogs, 5231 Lankershim Blvd,
North Hollywood, 818.985.3647, viciousdogsnoho.com
Weeneez, 500 S Spring St, Downtown, 213.817.6002, weeneez.com
Wurstkuche, 800 E 3rd St, Downtown, 213.687.4444, wurstkucherestaurant.com

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