Uni and Israeli couscous at Mezze. | Photo: Ali Stanley
THE IZAKAYA CRAZE
MEDITERRANEAN & MIDDLE EASTERN TAPAS
POINTS SOUTH
INFO
By Tara de Lis
For dineLA.com
Small plates have existed across many cultures, long before America’s fascination with them began around the new millennium. Tapas and pintxos are a longtime Spanish tradition, as are mezze (or various snacks) in the Mediterranean and Middle East. In Japan, izakaya-style pubs began as an after-work ritual, in which the food only served to soak up the booze. Food later became a focus, especially after the concept was exported.
The serendipity of small plates, whatever the country of origin, is the ability to taste as many different dishes as you like, at your own pace, without getting too full or racking up a huge bill. They are also ideal conversation-starters, creating the type of communal eating that elevates the dinner table to a destination.
A.O.C. salad | Photo: Tara de Lis
It’s hard to believe it now, but small plates were a radical new concept when A.O.C. made its debut in 2002, and Angelenos were hungry for a change. Because of the overwhelming success of sister restaurant Lucques, business partners Suzanne Goin and Caroline Styne had noticed a number of younger patrons who would eat dinner at the bar as a workaround for the fully-booked table reservations. Goin says, “Our idea [with A.O.C.] was to go with a menu that started with charcuterie and cheeses, but still have room for other foods. ... Having small portions made it fun to taste more things, pass them around, and make the dining experience more interactive.”
The restaurant continues to play to a packed house, and the wine list is still top notch. A salad of summer melons with fresh figs, prosciutto and mint cream pairs perfectly with an aromatic Italian white from the region of Friuli-Venezia Giulia. Another salad of beluga lentils, shelling beans peppers and labne is texturally compelling all on its own. Hearty lamb skewers are elevated by tomato and eggplant jam, plus a puree of skordalia (potato, almond and garlic).
Goin is still surprised by the momentum of the movement. She recalls, “It was a little bit scary when we opened, trying to explain to the staff what it was like and how people should order. I credit Angelenos [for being] really open to it and [loving] it from the beginning. They really went for it.”
Veal at Wood & Vine | Photo: Tara de Lis
For years, the Hollywood and Vine area was known more for its white-hot club scene than its culinary prowess. Thanks to investors like SBE (Cleo, Katsuya by Starck) and the IDG (Delphine at the W), that’s starting to change. In many ways, the emergence of Wood & Vine at Hollywood’s most famous intersection is just as groundbreaking as A.O.C.'s success. Located in the historic Taft building, this dynamic bar and gorgeous outdoor eatery has managed to balance a commitment to farmer’s market fare with a bustling bar scene for the pre-club crowd. Chef Gavin Mills (formerly at Bastide) says, “I think the neighborhood is changing slowly and becoming more food-focused, and we are getting in at the very beginning. A lot of locals are becoming our core customers.”
The menu is certainly impressive. All charcuterie is made in-house, from chorizo with the texture of a fine Italian salumi to decadent, creamy chicken liver mousse. Save room for gems like the honey-roasted figs, served with buche de chevre on grilled sourdough; it’s like a deconstructed grilled cheese dessert. For a heartier dish, a generous portion of veal is braised under pressure for 12 hours in a tomato basil sauce until it's as tender as the most luscious pork belly.
Hiramasa sashimi at M.B. Post. | Photo: Tara de Lis
M.B. Post is delivering global cuisine to Manhattan Beach. Chef David LeFevre says, “The menu is really a reflection of my experiences and travels. You’ll find inspiration ranging from all over Asia to the Caribbean in small plates that can be shared with the table for a bit of an around-the-world experience.” Examples include fresh fish dishes such as hiramasa sashimi with puffs of forbidden rice, to more exotic fare LeFevre likely picked up during his time abroad, like the Vietnamese pork jowl with green papaya salad. The All-American bacon cheddar biscuits are darn good as well.
JiRaffe was known for market-fresh fare long before it went mainstream. Monthly “Taste of JiRaffe” dinners are a great introduction to restaurant, where guests choose from about 10 different seasonal small plates, such as braised pork osso buco in a pineapple chutney au jus, and saffron gnocchi with Dungeness crab. A minimum of four per person is priced at $28, and additional courses are $7 each.
“Our Last Thursdays is a quick and affordable way to [experience] classic tastes of JiRaffe food, as well as some new [dishes] we are trying. After two months, we are continuing [the event], as people are really enjoying the selections,” says chef/owner Raphael Lunetta.
Larry's pizza | Photo: Tara de Lis
At Larry’s, it seems the larger portions designed for sharing are “the new small plates.” Similar to a sushi bar, diners indicate on a paper menu how many of each dish they’d like for the table. The ocean-adjacent venue gets its fair share of locals looking for something new, and visitors smart enough to avoid area tourist traps. The pizza is great, particularly the version with homemade green chorizo, chipotle peppers, red onions and queso fresco, with a soft egg in the center. For something a little lighter, the heirloom potato salad with green goat cheese, cherry tomatoes and fried quail eggs is an imaginative take on Americana.
Short ribs at Public School 612. | Photo: Tara de Lis
The same can be said for much of the food at Public School 612, which has opened adjacent to its parent restaurant, the Daily Grill downtown. Here, the Dragoons Irish stout short rib steals the show; it’s so tender it separates from the bone with just a touch of the fork. The fresh horseradish flakes really make the Yukon mash. During “recess” (the weekday happy hour from 4-7pm), short rib tacos are only $2.
The old Hyde was notorious for paparazzi stakeouts and Lindsay Lohan antics. But now it's trying to be taken seriously as a restaurant, and the results are surprising. Bacon-wrapped dates are a favorite, and the execution is solid. Served warm, the smoky outer layer is a nice foil to the creamy cheese and sweet fruit. The double Jack plus Parmesan queso fundido is addictive, with a little chorizo and peppedew kick. SBE Executive Chef Danny Elmaleh explains, “The intent of [our] shared plate menu is to stimulate interaction between the guests without interfering with the energy of the room. It’s also tailored to complement the mixology.” While there is still a velvet rope out early in the evening, walk-ins are accepted. Get there by 8:30 p.m. to ensure you have enough time to eat before bottle service begins around 10 p.m.
The team behind Aburiya Toranoko—several with ties to celebrated chef Nobu Matsuhisa’s empire—serves what they call “Tokyo city cuisine.” Exotic skewers of innards like chicken liver and heart tempt daredevil diners, and snow crab and jellyfish is a refreshing favorite. If eggplant is on the menu, order it. Selections rotate in and out, but this dish, which is often served with white or red miso, is sweet enough to ward off dessert cravings.
Mackerel seared tableside at Gonpachi. | Photo: Tara de Lis
Restaurant Row’s Gonpachi, modeled after the restaurant’s original location in Tokyo, is rumored to have been the inspiration for the Crazy 88’s fight scene in Kill Bill. Much of the vast menu is small plates, from specials like sea bream carpaccio with rock salt and shiso, to tableside-seared mackerel with ginger and scallions. Another can't-miss dish is the buckwheat noodles, which are made in-house daily. "In the Japanese culture, we are used to eating smaller portions," says Gonpachi Beverly Hills Executive Chef, Yasu Kusano. "With smaller dishes, you can experience a variety at one time."
Orris is named after the base ingredient in an ancient love potion, and the “little dishes” at this Little Osaka favorite are intended to be shared with loved ones. It’s a more informal outpost of Shiro, Hideo “Shiro” Yamashiro’s eponymous eatery and South Pasadena mainstay since 1986. Considering his background, which included tutelage under Wolfgang Puck at Ma Maison, the influences here reach far beyond Japanese to include dishes like shrimp mousse ravioli with a shitake mushroom sauce, to beets with Basque sheep’s milk cheese and balsamic.
Musha is a hugely popular among neighborhood locals in search of either an early bite or a more boisterous experience later in the evenings. Visit on a Friday or Saturday night, and you may well be bargaining with the host for how long you can keep your table. (Here’s a tip: don’t take the first window suggested, as you can usually barter for at least 30 minutes longer.) Must-trys include the spicy tuna dip with rice crackers, a play on the ubiquitous sushi bar dish with crispy rice; shu mai covered in an egg “omelet” with a tiny scallop nestled in the center; and the house special takotama, which is like a Japanese-fusion casserole of noodles, egg, octopus and onions.
Perhaps the most definitive and seductive spot in all of Los Angeles for Spanish tapas is The Bazaar, Jose Andres’ signature restaurant at the SLS Hotel. Half the menu is dedicated to traditional tapas, such as acorn-fed Spanish ham as fresh as if it were picked up at the Barcelona’s Boqueria, to more modern, whimsical interpretations like cotton candy with duck liver.
BarComida's signature dish, Tortilla Espanola. | Photo: Tara de Lis
In South Redondo Beach, Chez Melange has once again subdivided its space with the opening of BarComida, located in the former bar and lounge area of the restaurant. Chef Diane Scalia (a friend of the owners) features a constantly changing blackboard menu of her own signature small plates every Tuesday through Saturday during dinner service (until she runs out). It’s essential to arrive on the early side for a shot at her signature Tortilla Espanola, made with Spanish sausage, egg, caramelized onions, potatoes and herbs. The beet and walnut spread is also a hit. Scalia says, “As was the intention, people have returned over and again, and the changing menu has been very positively received. I love when people arrive who are so excited to be there because they 'keep hearing about us!'"
Why let the Spanish have all the fun? Such was the thinking behind the “French tapas” section of the menu at La Cachette Bistro. The innovation was part of a menu revamp after it relocated from its longtime home near the Westwood-Century City area. Among the offerings are seared squid with a piquillo pepper salad and sautéed foie gras with apple corn polenta brulee.
Blue prawns at Mezze. | Photo: Ali Stanley
Mezze is not only the name of a restaurant on La Cienega, but is loosely translated as a spread of small dishes. Fittingly, the majority of the menu is comprised of small plates with Mediterranean flavors and spices peppered throughout. Utterly compelling is the uni and Israeli couscous, with a trio of fresh sea urchin sashimi resting on top of rich, risotto-like concoction. Another favorite is the luscious head-on blue prawns, reminiscent of the best Spanish gambas, and the creamy chopped liver served with plum mostarda and a side of baked-in-house challah bread.
Executive chef/partner Micah Wexler explains his approach: “When you eat a bunch of small plates, it’s far more stimulating than looking at the same piece of steak for your entire meal. The food is meant to be abundant and shared. There is a certain feasting element to it where you have all of these flavors around and you’re constantly tasting something different. When I’m out to dinner with friends, this is the way I always eat; we order a bunch of plates and share.”
Malbec - clams and mussels. | Photo: Tara de Lis
After the acclaim and attention earned from his break-out restaurant Mo-Chica, Ricardo Zarate has opened Picca (meaning “to nibble”) above the old Test Kitchen space, which now houses Sotto. Known for Peruvian small plates with Japanese influences, menu items include multiple interpretations of ceviche, duck leg confit in black beer sauce with cilantro rice, and spicy yellowtail sushi with mayonnaise, green onions and wasabi tobiko.
Malbec offers its own spin on Spanish tapas—with an Argentine bistro bent. The weekday happy hour (offered from 4pm to 6:30pm) is exclusively dedicated to smaller portions. Naturally, the empanadas are a favorite, and of the bunch, the spinach and ricotta stands out for its creamy contrast to the thick pastry. Other dishes of note are calamari fried golden brown, and clams and mussels bathing in garlicky white wine and lemon juice.
A.O.C.
8022 W. Third St., Los Angeles, 323.653.6359
www.aocwinebar.com
Aburiya Toranoko
243 S. San Pedro St., Little Tokyo, 213.621.9500
www.toranokola.com
BarComida
1611 S Catalina Ave., Redondo Beach, 310.540.1222
www.chezmelange.com/eat/barcomida
The Bazaar by Jose Andres
465 S La Cienega Blvd., Los Angeles, 310.246.5555
thebazaar.com
Gonpachi
134 North La Cienega Blvd., Beverly Hills, 310.659.8887
gonpachi.globaldiningca.com
Hyde
8029 Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood, 323.525.2444
www.sbe.com/hyde
JiRaffe
502 Santa Monica Blvd., Santa Monica, 310.917.6671
www.jirafferestaurant.com
La Cachette Bistro
1733 Ocean Ave., Santa Monica, 310.434.9509
www.lacachettebistro.com
Larry’s
24 Windward Ave., Venice, 310.399.2700
larrysvenice.com
M.B. Post
1142 Manhattan Ave., Manhattan Beach, 310.545.5405
www.eatMBPost.com
Malbec
10151 Riverside Dr., Toluca Lake, 818.762.4860
www.malbeccuisine.com/default_toluca.asp
Mezze
401 North La Cienega Blvd., West Hollywood, 310.657.4103
www.mezzela.com
Musha
424 Wilshire Blvd., Santa Monica, 310.576.6330
musha.us
Orris Restaurant
2006 Sawtelle Blvd., Little Osaka, 310.268.2212
www.orrisrestaurant.com
Picca
9575 W Pico Blvd., Beverly Hills Adjacent, 310.277.0133
www.piccaperu.com
Public School 612
612 S Flower St, Downtown, 213.623.1172
www.publicschool612.com
Wood & Vine
6280 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 323.334.3360
www.woodandvine.com
