Hot's Kitchen
EXPERIMENTAL & EXOTIC EDIBLES
SAVORY SPANGLISH
KINGS OF THE SEA
ASIAN-MEXICAN FUSION
By Tara de Lis
For dineLA.com
LA is a taco kind of town, from traditional Mexican street-styles and their gourmet counterparts to spicy Korean versions and other Asian-influenced, wonton-shelled wonders.
Americans love a good hamburger, but Angelenos just might give the nod to tacos, which have become almost as ubiquitous on LA menus. Not only are they the perfect snack—or a full meal if you eat a few—but the price point, even for the fancy ones, makes them a great value. With all the talk of taco trucks these days, people sometimes forget there some great brick-and-mortar restaurants serving up these meaty treats, too.
Loteria Grill’s (12050 Ventura Blvd., Studio City, 818.508.5300) shredded beef taco has become something of a local legend. It may sound simple, but it’s more of a complex meat stew inside the tortilla, accented with fresh guacamole, onions, cilantro and an excellent chipotle salsa.
Before Yuca’s (2056 Hillhurst Ave., Los Feliz, 323.662.12140) opened in 1976, it’s safe to say that most Anglo Angelenos were unfamiliar with cochinita pibil, a Yucatan-style pork that is citrus-marinated, slow-roasted and rich in both flavor and color. This family-run taco stand’s version of the dish is second to none.
Part of another family business—in this case, the one behind Cook’s Tortas’s, Guisado’s (2100 E. Cesar E Chavez Ave., Boyle Heights, 323.264.7201) is a little gem in Boyle Heights, with a small selection of authentic dishes. Suggested is the mini taco sampler plate, which contains six smaller versions. The chicharrones, or fried pork rinds, are beautifully braised. Less daring diners will likely enjoy the pimento-y bisteca in red salsa. The masa is made right next door—talk about fresh!
King Taco (1118 Cypress Ave., Cypress Park, 323.223.2595
) treats meats like royalty, particularly the standout molleja, which is actually the Spanish word for sweetbreads. Served with a fairly mild green salsa and other condiments, they are slightly silky in texture and have a distinct offal taste, which lovers of “bizarre” foods crave. 
Billieria Jalisco (1845 E. 1st St., East L.A., 323.262.4552) is the place to, literally, “get your goat.” It’s widely hailed as one of the top spots in the city, if not the country, for the birria de chivo. Not only is goat the specialty of the house, it’s the only meat on the menu. The half-sized portion is recommended deboned for tacos, though purists may argue otherwise. It comes piping hot on a big plate, with steaming tortillas and traditional accompaniments. The suadero—think brisket—steals the show at El Taco Loco #3 (1465 Magnolia Ave., Long Beach, 562.437.6228) in Long Beach, where many regulars are equally big fans of the homemade tortillas.
Fiesta Taco (1110 North Hollywood Way, Burbank, 818.558.6645), a cute little taco stand in Burbank, is known for its tongue tacos. Not for the uninitiated, they are very rustic and gamey. But for lovers of lengua, they are best paired with the medium-spicy, yellow-tinged salsa. 
For a more refined cow tongue, one of the best out there is at Candela (831 S. La Brea Ave., Los Angeles, 323.936.0533) on La Brea. The texture is supple and almost velvety. But there are also more than a dozen other options, including an impressive al pastor, which nicely integrates pineapple pieces. Owner Maria Lopez explains, “We focus on traditional flavors without compromising our presentation.” Most tacos are only $1 on Wednesday nights. Ana Maria’s (317 S Broadway, Downtown, 213.620.0477) at the Grand Central Market makes killer gorditas, a food item that is largely under-appreciated, thanks to its association with Taco Bell. But these are the real deal, kind of like a cross between a taco and a sandwich. They are literally a hot, creamy and meaty mess.
Playa’s (7360 Beverly Blvd., Los Angeles, 323.933.5300) cilantro-pressed Bombay Taj maize cake—similar to a tortilla but thicker—is a beguiling blend of pork belly confit, chile-lime jicama, mango pickle, masala, a chana crisp and cooling raita. The dish is not only delicious, it’s beautiful, too. Everything from the texture to the taste is balanced; in three words: the perfect bite. Chef/owner John Sedlar attributes the success of his maize cakes to the “secret process” involved in making them: “very knowledgeable senoras” who have developed a “visceral” sense for when the cake is ready. The process is executed entirely by hand.
The Lazy Ox’s (241 S. San Pedro St., Little Tokyo, 213.626.5299) chef Josef Centeno has been experimenting with “bacos” since his stint at Meson G. Kind of like a cross between a pita and a taco, people go loco for them. The most interesting one involves pork belly and apples—if they make a menu appearance, order them, regardless of the filling.
As an adjunct to FIG’s (101 Wilshire Blvd., Santa Monica, 310.319.3111) popular “kegs n’ eggs” Sunday brunch, a taco station takes over part of the bar. All the usual protein suspects are on offer, along with a vegetarian version featuring poblanos and mushrooms. It’s rare to see it offered, but occasionally a special is pork lover’s delight in the form of an amazing bacon confit and avocado taco.
Tinga’s (142 S. La Brea Ave., Los Angeles, 323.954.9566) tender and rich short rib entry takes tacos to a whole different level. It’s a gourmet experience in a casual, offbeat setting. The meat is joined by pickled red cabbage, Spanish-style fried potatoes, queso fresco and crema. It’s divine. 
It’s amazing there aren’t constantly lines out the door at Cacao (1576 Colorado Blvd., Eagle Rock, 323.478.2791). The tacos are uniformly good, but the exotics section is a real draw for hardcore foodies. The slightly sweet rabbit confit taco is dressed in four-chile pomegranate sauce, then sprinkled with pom seeds and cojita cheese. 
Another hole in the wall, My Taco (6300 York Blvd., Highland Park, 323.256.2698), offers something most don’t: lamb. Known as “borrego,” it’s as delightfully gamey as any chop or rack in a nice restaurant.At Red O (8155 Melrose Ave., West Hollywood, 323.655.5009), very different lamb tacos are also a standout dish. The red chile sauce, with anchos and guajillos, creates a nice deep color and smoky complexity, with the ante further up by the elements of roasted garlic, cumin and black beans.
Hot's Kitchen (844 Hermosa Ave., Hermosa Beach, 310.318.2939) seems to be of the mindset, if it exists in food, you can put it inside a tortilla. The vast menu, which offers more than 50 options, features everything from spicy tuna topped with seaweed salad to oxtail and braised leeks. But the best of all might just be the King crab smothered in mustard butter, though non-meat eaters are certainly done right by the version with melted havarti, sundried tomato tapenade and marinated vegetables. 
Tacos Por Favor (1406 Olympic Blvd., Santa Monica, 310.392.5768) is a little hole-in-the-wall haven in Santa Monica. A highly suggested off-menu pick is the chorizo and egg, which is akin to a yummy Mexican omelet inside a taco. Cheese is optional. Add a little of the fiery red sauce to spice it up. 
Corkbar’s (403 W. 12th St., Downtown, 213.746.0050) chef Albert Aviles does up a nice rendition of shredded pork tacos, which are neither too dry nor too fatty. Though Aviles remains mum about the details, he teases, “What better way to braise the pork [than] in beer.” The dish is available as a trio, each topped with a different salsa.
Also downtown, the new Border Grill (445 S. Figueroa St., Downtown, 213.486.5171) serves a soon-to-be-infamous avocado taco, which actually started on the Border Grill truck. Coated in sesame seeds, the vegetarian snack also features red quinoa and a creamy corn relish. Vegans can get in on the action at Real Food Daily (414 N. La Cienega Blvd., West Hollywood, 310.289.9910), where “tac-o the town” dish comes with onions, peppers, seitan, guacamole, tofu sour cream, black beans and Spanish rice.
At Pink Taco (10250 Santa Monica Blvd., Century City, 310.789.1000), the playfully named rock-and-roll eatery at Century City’s Westfield mall, variations of the dish are a menu staple, natch. But the one that shares the restaurant’s namesake has evolved from a gimmicky pink shell to pickled pink red onions on top of grilled chicken, black beans, avocado and tangy arbol salsa 
El Atacor (3520 N Figueroa St., Cypress Park, 323.342.0180) is wildly popular for its crispy potato tacos. Not a hard shell, but a deep-fried soft shell, fluffy potatoes burst out in every bite, as the sour cream and mild green goo add richness. Spice lovers are well advised to get a side of the much more potent red sauce. One of the signature dishes at Mas Malo (515 W. 7th St., Downtown, 213.985.4332) is still the one made famous by its Silver Lake sister restaurant. A crispy, fried shell contains ground beef and dill pickles—the recipe came from chef Robert Luna’s crafty mother, who substituted tortillas for bread once when making her son’s childhood favorite sandwich.
Taco Tuesday has become a ritual for many at the Spanish Kitchen (826 N. La Cienega Blvd., Los Angeles, 310.659.4794). There’s a rotating list of a dozen or so items, each priced at only $2 all night long. The blackened halibut with mildly spicy arbol sauce, cabbage and tomatoes is nicely seasoned. 
When Hollywood’s hot club Las Palmas (1714 North Las Palmas Ave., Hollywood, 323.464.0171) reopened in 2010, the owners had a stroke of genius. Instead of forcing buzzed hipsters into the streets in search of food trucks, why not open a little taco stand adjacent to the entrance. There are usually four or five varieties on offer; of all things, the “soy-rizo”—a vegetarian version of chorizo—is compelling. Tito’s Tacos (11222 Washington Pl., Culver City, 310.391.5780) in Culver City is a beloved institution among neighborhood locals and cross-town noshers on a pilgrimage. The greasy, hard-shelled tacos are a true indulgence. Go for the gusto and get the “Tito’s taco with cheese,” which also contains shredded beef and Iceberg lettuce.
At Rosa Mexicano (800 W. Olympic Blvd., Downtown, 213.746.0001), entrée-sized taco portions are served in a cast iron skillet—a presentation similar to fajitas—with chili, corn and salsa. The grilled chicken is flavorful and tender, done up in garlic, cumin, cloves and cinnamon. Melted Chihuahua cheese seals the deal. 
Delish fried fish can be found at the Best Fish Taco in Ensenada (1650 N. Hillhurst Ave., Los Feliz, 323.466.5552), the original location of which is, ironically, found in the heart of Los Feliz. There are only two food items on the menu, the namesake basa and the fried shrimp. The former is suggested with “mango madness,” the latter with a “pineapple kiss.” In fact, the salsa bar alone is reason to come; it’s a DIY process of constructing a barebones taco with mild or spicy sauces, then adding shredded cabbage, crema and radish relish. 
Main Street Santa Monica’s Lula (2700 Main St., Santa Monica, 310.392.5711) has been around for more than 20 years, and locals love the lobster tacos, which are served in a dreamy, creamy chipotle sauce with spiced onions and garlic. The Peninsula Hotel Club Bar’s (9882 S. Santa Monica Blvd., Beverly Hills, 310.551.2888) shrimp tacos are done up in a nicely tart charred tomatillo salsa, with homemade pickled jalapenos. For a hotel bar in the middle of upscale Beverly Hills, purists may be surprisingly satisfied, yet the quality of the ingredients warrants the price tag attached to the zip code.
On the menu since day one at Silver Lake’s Reservoir (1700 Silver Lake Blvd., Silver Lake, 323.662.8655), the panko-crusted fried shrimp taco cleverly is served in a thin-sliced jicama “shell.” It’s jacked up by spicy aioli, then cooled down with fennel slaw.
The Hyatt’s Breeze (2025 Avenue of the Stars, Century City, 310.551.3334) restaurant features a nicely cooked, ultra-mild grilled fish taco, which uses local sea bass as its base, part of the hotel’s commitment to sustainable seafood. They are available with corn and/or flour tortillas. 
Terranea Resorts’s family-friendly Nelson’s (6610 Palos Verdes Dr. S., Rancho Palos Verdes, 310.265.2780) eatery does nice pan-cooked chipotle shrimp tacos topped with sour cream and Napa slaw. 
Fast-fresh-casual concept Plancha (8250 W. 3rd St., Los Angeles, 323.951.9911) might not have Adonis DNA, but it does have a “tiger taco,” featuring jack cheese, onions and cilantro. Light eaters, take note: all tacos here can be served in fresh lettuce cups. The Alibi Room (12236 Washington Blvd., Culver City, 310.390.9300) is a workaround for avoiding the long lines at cult-favorite-turned-mainstream-crossover sensation the Kogi truck. Not only do you not have to wait in line, you actually get to sit down and enjoy a microbrew with them.
Pasadena’s Elements Kitchen (937 S. El Molino Ave., Pasadena, 626.440.0044) does a take on Korean tacos, too. Nestled in a corn and sesame tortillas is a mix of flank steak, kimchi, pickled ginger and sambal aioli.
Another Pasadena spot doing Asian-inspired interpretations is Cham Korean Bistro (851 Cordova St., Pasadena, 626.792.2474), where one of the specialty tapas plates offers calamari mini tacos with sautéed kimchi on top.
Zengo (395 Santa Monica Pl., Santa Monica, 310.899.1000) at the Santa Monica Place mall is presenting wonton tacos filled with charred tuna, sushi-style rice, fruity mango salsa and guacamole.
Upper West (3321 Pico Blvd., Santa Monica, 310.586.1111) also proffers crispy tuna tacos, in this case ahi nestled into a plantain shell with rice crackers, orange-chipotle vinaigrette and cucumber-jicama salsa.
